Last February I had the pleasure of working alongside the England Cricket Team shooting at Lords Cricket Ground. The two-day shoot was geared up to promote the new kit release sponsored by New Balance.
Personally I find that the male make-up "no make-up" application can be one of the most challenging jobs as a make-up artist. Ensuring the client is blemish-free but not looking obviously made-up under the scrutiny of HD cameras is no easy task; the products have got to deliver!
I was based on motion set, filming all the pre-footage for the upcoming cricket season so I thought I would take the time to share a few tips & products I used on set.
I like to start with a thorough cleanse and tone. I personally like to use something gentle and hypo-allengenic to minimise a flare up of any redness. I used the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Range for this particular shoot. This range is formulated for sensitive skin. Once I had toned the skin with La Roche - Posay Miccellar water I used the Toleriane Eye cream to moisturise the under eye, one pump will be enough for both eyes, you need such a small amount and massage gently in under the eye, this will help to reduce any puffiness and water retention as well as providing the ideal base for your concealer application.
I then used a combination of 2 moisturisers to hydrate the skin. I started by applying a little of the Effaclar Mat moisturiser and applying a small amount to the T-Zone. This gel-like formula sinks in easily and provides a mattifying finish which is ideal for a long day filming. I then applied a little of the La Roche Possay Toleriane Protective Cream to the cheeks, temples and the neck area. This soothing lightweight fragrance & paraben-free moisturiser is ideal for delicate skin and also if the client is freshly shaved, as it will moisturise without aggravating sensitive skin. I finished by adding a very lightweight lip balm to the lips. I used Carmex Lip Balm for this shoot as it is not overly greasy.
I do like to give the moisturiser time to sink in before concealing but when you have between 8 - 10 mins per client this is not always possible. I like to quickly check the eyebrows and all other facial hair is neat and tidy whilst the moisturiser sinks in.
Apply a little shine-controlling primer to the T-Zone with a Duo Fibre Face brush, only use a small amount of product and spread evenly. I used Kryolan HD Micro Primer. This amazing product is designed for this type of camera work and helps to reduce pores and fine lines, it also helps to regulate the moisture level in the skin.
For concealing I used my Bobbi Brown BBU Palette starting with applying a little of the corrector shades to even out any blue & red tones under the eyes, then a little of the concealer, gently buff out with the tip of a beauty blender sponge. Gently stipple any remaining product over any obvious blemishes.
Instead of using foundation, I opted to buff a translucent powder offering a much more natural finish, with a duo fibre face brush Mac's 187 Duo Fibre brush is ideal. Tap any excess powder off the brush and, in circular motions (Starting at the forehead), buff the translucent powder into the skin, adding a little more to the t-zone. I used the Kryolan Ultra Powder - double check you haven't had a collection of product build up in the beard area. With the smallest amount of powder on a soft blending brush just dust under the eyes to help prevent concealer from sinking into any fine lines.
Brush eyelashes up with a disposable mascara wand then using the smallest amount of brow wax gently smooth down brows with your wand . Blot any excess lip balm off the lips.
one part glycerin to two parts water was mixed up in a spray bottle and misted over the face and arms for the "post match" shots. Misted further away from the body created a more realistic sweaty sheen.
Maintenance on Set
Keep everything you need to hand in a clear set bag, the more pockets the better!
Blotting Paper (we went through a lot!!) NYX do a great range without being too pricy
Blot Powder - Mac was a firm favourite,
Keep a couple of clean powder puffs on hand to really press the blot powder into the skin.
A clean buffing brush is so handy for buffing in any last minute powder fixes
L'oreal Techni Art extra strong fixing spray was used in the hair. It is hardly perfumed and it's firm hold but non-sticky formula is a winner with male hair.
Recommended Extras Keep in your Kit
Hair Putty or a Matt Wax
Plenty of tissues & disposables
It was an absolute pleasure to work alongside both Frances Prescott MUA & Scarlet Williamson MUA.
Production: Chrome Productions
Photography: Ranald Mackechnie