Male Grooming & Make-Up For Camera - England Cricket Kit Launch

England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up

Last February I had the pleasure of working alongside the England Cricket Team shooting at Lords Cricket Ground. The two-day shoot was geared up to promote the new kit release sponsored by New Balance.

Personally I find that the male make-up "no make-up" application can be one of the most challenging jobs as a make-up artist. Ensuring the client is blemish-free but not looking obviously made-up under the scrutiny of HD cameras is no easy task; the products have got to deliver!

I was based on motion set, filming all the pre-footage for the upcoming cricket season so I thought I would take the time to share a few tips & products I used on set.

I like to start with a thorough cleanse and tone. I personally like to use something gentle and hypo-allengenic to minimise a flare up of any redness. I used the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Range for this particular shoot. This range is formulated for sensitive skin. Once I had toned the skin with La Roche - Posay Miccellar water I used the Toleriane Eye cream to moisturise the under eye, one pump will be enough for both eyes, you need such a small amount and massage gently in under the eye, this will help to reduce any puffiness and water retention as well as providing the ideal base for your concealer application.

I then used a combination of 2 moisturisers to hydrate the skin. I started by applying a little of the Effaclar Mat moisturiser and applying a small amount to the T-Zone. This gel-like formula sinks in easily and provides a mattifying finish which is ideal for a long day filming. I then applied a little of the La Roche Possay Toleriane Protective Cream to the cheeks, temples and the neck area. This soothing lightweight fragrance & paraben-free moisturiser is ideal for delicate skin and also if the client is freshly shaved, as it will moisturise without aggravating sensitive skin. I finished by adding a very lightweight lip balm to the lips. I used Carmex Lip Balm for this shoot as it is not overly greasy.

England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up
Bobbi Brown BBU Palette - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up Kit
England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up
England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up
England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up
England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up
England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up
England Cricket Team - Jessica Hawkins Make-Up

I do like to give the moisturiser time to sink in before concealing but when you have between 8 - 10 mins per client this is not always possible. I like to quickly check the eyebrows and all other facial hair is neat and tidy whilst the moisturiser sinks in. 

Apply a little shine-controlling primer to the T-Zone with a Duo Fibre Face brush, only use a small amount of product and spread evenly. I used Kryolan HD Micro Primer. This amazing product is designed for this type of camera work and helps to reduce pores and fine lines, it also helps to regulate the moisture level in the skin. 

For concealing I used my Bobbi Brown BBU Palette starting with applying a little of the corrector shades to even out any blue & red tones under the eyes, then a little of the concealer, gently buff out with the tip of a beauty blender sponge. Gently stipple any remaining product over any obvious blemishes. 

Instead of using foundation, I opted to buff a translucent powder offering a much more natural finish, with a duo fibre face brush Mac's 187 Duo Fibre brush is ideal. Tap any excess powder off the brush and, in circular motions (Starting at the forehead), buff the translucent powder into the skin, adding a little more to the t-zone. I used the Kryolan Ultra Powder - double check you haven't had a collection of product build up in the beard area. With the smallest amount of powder on a soft blending brush just dust under the eyes to help prevent concealer from sinking into any fine lines. 

Brush eyelashes up with a disposable mascara wand then using the smallest amount of brow wax gently smooth down brows with your wand . Blot any excess lip balm off the lips.

one part glycerin to two parts water was mixed up in a spray bottle and misted over the face and arms for the "post match" shots. Misted further away from the body created a more realistic sweaty sheen. 

Maintenance on Set 

  • Keep everything you need to hand in a clear set bag, the more pockets the better!

  • Blotting Paper (we went through a lot!!) NYX do a great range without being too pricy 

  • Blot Powder - Mac was a firm favourite, 

  • Keep a couple of clean powder puffs on hand to really press the blot powder into the skin. 

  • A clean buffing brush is so handy for buffing in any last minute powder fixes

  • L'oreal Techni Art extra strong fixing spray was used in the hair. It is hardly perfumed and it's firm hold but non-sticky formula is a winner with male hair.

 

Recommended Extras Keep in your Kit

  • Hair Clippers

  • Disposable Razors

  • Nail File

  • Hair Putty or a Matt Wax

  • Safety Pins

  • Plenty of tissues & disposables 

It was an absolute pleasure to work alongside both Frances Prescott MUA & Scarlet Williamson MUA. 

Production: Chrome Productions

Photography: Ranald Mackechnie

Kate's Beautifully Stylish London Wedding

I had the privilege of working with Kate to create her perfect hair & make-up look for her gorgeously stylish Christmas wedding on 22nd December 2017. 

I met Kate when she was a model for a photoshoot I was working on so when she asked me to do her wedding hair & make-up I jumped at the chance. When Kate started to describe the details of her wedding I knew we could create something a little different. We opted for a warm coppery gold eye make-up designed to catch the light. Being so close to christmas we decided to play up to the festive season. The overall make-up was sculpted in warm bronzes and champagne golds to make the most of Kates' amazing bone structure, whilst still keeping the overall look soft and elegant.

Kate Watson
Jessica Hawkins Make-Up

Kate has absolutely beautiful skin that is the result of a good thorough skin regime. I started by prepping the skin with the La Roche-Posay gentle cream cleanser. I like to massage this into the skin in circular motions with my hands, I find this really wakes up the skin and helps to achieve that glowy complexion. I then removed the cleanser with the La Roche-Posay toner, and then I gently applied La Roche-Posay tolleraine eyecream around the eye area. I opted for the Bobbi Brown Vitamin E face base to moisturise the skin, this beautiful concoction of shea butter & vitamins B, C, and E prep and prime the skin so it looks dewy but never greasy. I like to leave this to sink into the skin for 5 minutes before applying foundation. 

Jessica Hawkins Make-Up Kit
Jessica Hawkins Make-Up Kit
Jessica Hawkins Make-Up Kit

For Kate’s base I decided on the Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation in shade warm sand 1.5 as this is quite sheer in its consistency, therefore ideal for skin that needs little coverage. I prefer to apply this foundation with my NYX face buffer brush, gently building up the coverage. I then added a little more coverage over the T-zone area with the Bobbi Brown foundation stick in the same shade as the foundation. This just helps with the longevity of bridal make-up. Once this has all been seamlessly buffed in, I then started highlighting with the Marc Jacobs Dew Drops. The consistency of this highlighter is just dreamy, I like to warm it slightly on the back of my hand and apply with my fingers to the cheek bones, temples, cupids bow and then any remaining product just under the brow bone. I then quickly buff in these areas with a beauty blender to make sure there are no edges visible. For concealing, I prefer my Bobbi Brown BBU palette, I always use both the corrector and the creamy concealer for bridal, it's practically 8 hours sleep in a pot! I then set the under eye concealer with the Laura Mercier Secret brightening under eye powder. The consistency of this powder is so fine it’s invisible under camera. To set the foundation I swept Charlotte Tilbury airbrush flawless finish powder in shade 1 Fair just over the forehead, nose, chin and under the jaw, avoiding the places I had highlighted. With a very large bronzing brush I finished the base with Bobbi Brown Brightening finishing powder in the nude shade. This product really helps lift the skin giving a soft glow all over.

For the eye make-up we opted for warm bronze & copper tones to compliment the oyster colour of Kate's wedding dress, and the warmer undertone of her skin. I prepped the base with the Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer, this stops the shadow from sinking into the creases of the eye and making it waterproof. Using my Mac Neutral Warm Palette I used a combo of Honey Lust and Amber lights in the socket and then creative copper shade in the corner of the eye. I also used a little of the Charlotte Tilbury instant eye palette using the iridescent gold to blend the Mac colours together. I then like to use a light reflecting eye shadow in the corner of the eye to brighten the eyes, I use the Illamasqua pure pigments for this. A brown kohl was smudged and blended into both the upper & bottom lash line; I like to go over this with a very small angled brush and work in a deep brown matt shadow to give more impact. I then finished with the Max Factor master piece mascara in black waterproof, I have been using this product for years in my kit and it just does not shift or run with any tears. A combination of Ardell short and medium, knot free individual lashes were used to finish the makeup, these really framed Kates' eyes giving more impact but subtly so.

Jessica Hawkins Make-Up Kit
Kate Watson Wedding

I sculpted Kate's (already amazing cheek bones) with Charlotte Tilbury filmstar bronzer and highlighter, in shade light to medium. I like to buff this in once I have applied it sweeping under the cheekbones. I then dusted Mac sheer tone blusher in shade Melba all over the cheek and then finished with the Mac sheer tone blush in Peaches just on the apple of the cheeks. To blend this all in I dusted the soft gold shimmer highlighter from the Charlotte Tilbury filmstar bronze on the cheek bones.

To finish the look I used the Mac lip pencil in boldly bare to line the lips and finished the look with Marc Jacobs Sheer Gel Lipstick in Moody Margot which just perfected the overall make-up.

Kate Watson Wedding

I absolutely loved creating this look, if you have any questions or product queries please do not hesitate to get in touch.

For more stunning photos of Kate's wedding, see here.

Photos : Taylor Hughes Photography